The problem with this question is that you don't know what dye was used, when you buy clothing. A treatment that will help set acid dyes will tend to strip off fiber reactive dyes, while the carbonate that will set fiber reactive dyes won't do any good for union dyes. You must match such chemical treatments to the exact dye type that was used, for acceptable results. Furthermore, such treatments are best used at the time of dyeing, rather than much later.
Vinegar is not the answer!
Many people who know nothing about this subject recommend 'setting' dye in cotton clothing with vinegar. In fact, vinegar can do nothing useful for cotton dyes. Vinegar will help set some acid dyes,but only if applied while it is gradually heated to a simmer (generally in the presence of salt), solely in cases in which this necessary part of acid dyeing was omitted; acid dyes are used on silk, wool, or nylon, but never cotton.
Salt won't do it, either.
Salt can be useful in dyeing, by encouraging the fiber not to repel the dye, or by making the dye less soluble, but it will not itself fix the dye to the fiber. Washing your garment with salt won't hurt it, but it also will not help. The extra washing will help to remove the dye only because it's another run through the washer, which can help to remove excess dye.
Washing Out Excess Dye.
In some cases, the clothing may be dyed correctly, and also have excess dye in it. This is true of fabrics dyed with fiber reactive dye that have not been washed adequately. In such cases, the simplest solution is to simply go ahead and wash -repeatedly. The test for whether all excess dye has been removed is simple: dampen the dyed item and iron it dry, while pressing it against a bit of white fabric. If the undyed fabric stays white, the dyed fabric (or yarn) can be trusted. Normally, the most popular fiber reactive dye, Procion MX type dye, requires at least one washing in cold water (without detergent, unless it's Synthrapol), followed by at least two washings in hot water, WITH detergent, to remove the last bits of unattached dye. Hot water is much more efficient than warm water at removing the last bits of unattached dye.
Wednesday, October 21, 2009
Thursday, October 15, 2009
Silk screen printing
Step 1
Create your artwork. If you don't know how to do that, sketch out the general idea. Sit down with your screen printer to work out the details. If your screen printer can't create your artwork, find a graphic artist.
Step 2
The screen printer will review your artwork and discuss the type of garment you want to have it printed on. Most people who print garments will have a supplier for apparel. If you're not sure of the type of apparel you want, ask your printer. They will have ideas for you. It is also acceptable to take your own. If it is something other than 100% cotton, there might be a slightly higher fee for the ink because other fabric may require ink additives.
Step 3
Bitmap image - Has pixalated edges Once you have settled on a garment and the artwork, the screen printer will go to work. The first step is to prepare the artwork to be burned on the screen. Artwork that is received in a bitmap format (giff, tiff, jpeg), will need to be vectored. There is a big difference between bitmap and vectored art. We were taught Bitmap=Bad, Vector=Good. Vectored art has clean lines while bitmap has pixels. The larger you make bitmap art, the more jagged the edges get. A vectored image can be changed, a bitmap can't.
Step 4
Screen Printing is labor intensive. It involves coating a screen, burning the image and applying the ink.
1. Screens are coating using emulsion or capillary film. Both involve drying time.
2. When the screen is dry, the artwork is burned into the screen. The process involves creating the artwork, putting it on a laser paper, exposing it, and washing it out. One of the really nasty parts of this is the wash out. If the screen is not coated correctly, parts of the design will wash out and the process starts again.
3. When you have a perfect screen, it is time to screen the shirt. If you are doing artwork that involves two or more colors, a screen must be burned for each color.
4. The inks used for screening differ with the fabrics.They also change based on the desired texture. Puff paint is really fun to work with and I like the foils.
Step 5
When everything is ready, it's time to apply the ink. If it is a 2 color process, the bottom color goes on first. You pull the ink across the screen leaving one coat. Most require 2 pulls to make sure that the ink on the shirt is consistent. The ink is then flash dried. This cures the top portion of the ink so the next color can be applied. You change the screen and pull the ink for the other color. Again, usually two pulls.The top layer is then flash dried. The shirt is pulled from the platen (form where the shirt sits for printing) and dried. Drying generally is 40 seconds. Again, different inks require different drying times.
Create your artwork. If you don't know how to do that, sketch out the general idea. Sit down with your screen printer to work out the details. If your screen printer can't create your artwork, find a graphic artist.
Step 2
The screen printer will review your artwork and discuss the type of garment you want to have it printed on. Most people who print garments will have a supplier for apparel. If you're not sure of the type of apparel you want, ask your printer. They will have ideas for you. It is also acceptable to take your own. If it is something other than 100% cotton, there might be a slightly higher fee for the ink because other fabric may require ink additives.
Step 3
Bitmap image - Has pixalated edges Once you have settled on a garment and the artwork, the screen printer will go to work. The first step is to prepare the artwork to be burned on the screen. Artwork that is received in a bitmap format (giff, tiff, jpeg), will need to be vectored. There is a big difference between bitmap and vectored art. We were taught Bitmap=Bad, Vector=Good. Vectored art has clean lines while bitmap has pixels. The larger you make bitmap art, the more jagged the edges get. A vectored image can be changed, a bitmap can't.
Step 4
Screen Printing is labor intensive. It involves coating a screen, burning the image and applying the ink.
1. Screens are coating using emulsion or capillary film. Both involve drying time.
2. When the screen is dry, the artwork is burned into the screen. The process involves creating the artwork, putting it on a laser paper, exposing it, and washing it out. One of the really nasty parts of this is the wash out. If the screen is not coated correctly, parts of the design will wash out and the process starts again.
3. When you have a perfect screen, it is time to screen the shirt. If you are doing artwork that involves two or more colors, a screen must be burned for each color.
4. The inks used for screening differ with the fabrics.They also change based on the desired texture. Puff paint is really fun to work with and I like the foils.
Step 5
When everything is ready, it's time to apply the ink. If it is a 2 color process, the bottom color goes on first. You pull the ink across the screen leaving one coat. Most require 2 pulls to make sure that the ink on the shirt is consistent. The ink is then flash dried. This cures the top portion of the ink so the next color can be applied. You change the screen and pull the ink for the other color. Again, usually two pulls.The top layer is then flash dried. The shirt is pulled from the platen (form where the shirt sits for printing) and dried. Drying generally is 40 seconds. Again, different inks require different drying times.
Tuesday, October 13, 2009
Make ripped/ torn denim jeans
Hollywood stars glam up with an awesome pair of torn or ripped denim jeans which can cost hundreds of dollars. How would you like to have a pair with little or no cost at all? It’s quite easy actually.
Step 1
Insert a block of wood or a thick card board inside the pant leg under the area where you will add the rip or shredding. You can use an old pair of jeans or get a new pair from a thrift store. It does not need to be expensive or branded.
Step 2
Slice using utility knife. Start slicing the fabric horizontally using the utility knife. Make sure that you will not cut through the other side of the fabric. You can put the rip in areas that you wouldn’t naturally tear to make it look better. Vary the width and length of the tears as well… be creative.
Step 3 Pumice stone
Roughen and scrape the fiber in the ripped area by rubbing with a pumice stone or sandpaper. Be careful not to rub it too much and cutting the horizontal fibers.
Step 4
Pick the threads apart using a pin or needle to add an extra shredding.
Step 5
Wash and dry before wearing the ripped jeans to further fray the fabric. That’s how easy it is!
Step 1
Insert a block of wood or a thick card board inside the pant leg under the area where you will add the rip or shredding. You can use an old pair of jeans or get a new pair from a thrift store. It does not need to be expensive or branded.
Step 2
Slice using utility knife. Start slicing the fabric horizontally using the utility knife. Make sure that you will not cut through the other side of the fabric. You can put the rip in areas that you wouldn’t naturally tear to make it look better. Vary the width and length of the tears as well… be creative.
Step 3 Pumice stone
Roughen and scrape the fiber in the ripped area by rubbing with a pumice stone or sandpaper. Be careful not to rub it too much and cutting the horizontal fibers.
Step 4
Pick the threads apart using a pin or needle to add an extra shredding.
Step 5
Wash and dry before wearing the ripped jeans to further fray the fabric. That’s how easy it is!
Sew button with added security
Losing a button can not only be embarrassing if it happens in public, but it can also mean the end for an favorite pair of shorts or button up shirt. Just by taking a few extra precautions with button sewing, you can save embarrassment, time, and the expense of having to purchase a new article of clothing. The following are steps to take to avoid losing this small but very important fashion necessity.
Step 1 - EXAMINE THE BUTTON OR BUTTONS.
This technique of resewing your button works best with buttons that have four holes, but will also work with two hole buttons. Examine the thread that is currently securing the button. If the thread is already loose, go ahead and pull it out from around the button. If the thread is tight, then leave it alone, but still perform this technique over top of the existing stitching.
Step 2 - CHOOSE A THREAD
There are different threads to choose from when deciding which thread to use to secure your buttons. If your button is crucial such as one that holds up your pants, then it may be beneficial to use a more industrial thread. Otherwise, a general all purpose thread will work fine.
Step 3- THREAD THE NEEDLE
Thread the end of one side of the thread through the eye of the needle. Match the two ends of the thread together and tie them into a knot.
Step 4 - SECURE THE THREAD TO THE ARTICLE OF CLOTHING
Decide where the button is going to be sewn if it is not already secure. Take your needle and take a small stitch into the fabric. Do not pull the thread all the way through. You should have the needle on one side of the stitch and the hanging thread on the other. Split apart the hanging thread so that it forms a loop. Run the needle through this loop and pull tightly.
Step 5 - SECURE THE BUTTON TO ONE POINT
If the button has four holes, then begin to stitch the needle through two of the holes and back through the the fabric remembering to pull the thread tightly. Continue this motion approximately 4 times. With the needle to the back of the fabric, take one more siny stitch through just the back of the fabric knotting the thread as you go. Cut the thread just beyond the knot.
Step 6 - REPEAT STEP 5
If you are working on a button with four holes, Repeat this step though the other set of holes. If your button only has two holes, repeat this step through the same holes. The object of this whole technique is to secure the button with more than one set of threads so that if one of your threads breaks then the other one will still be intact.
Step 1 - EXAMINE THE BUTTON OR BUTTONS.
This technique of resewing your button works best with buttons that have four holes, but will also work with two hole buttons. Examine the thread that is currently securing the button. If the thread is already loose, go ahead and pull it out from around the button. If the thread is tight, then leave it alone, but still perform this technique over top of the existing stitching.
Step 2 - CHOOSE A THREAD
There are different threads to choose from when deciding which thread to use to secure your buttons. If your button is crucial such as one that holds up your pants, then it may be beneficial to use a more industrial thread. Otherwise, a general all purpose thread will work fine.
Step 3- THREAD THE NEEDLE
Thread the end of one side of the thread through the eye of the needle. Match the two ends of the thread together and tie them into a knot.
Step 4 - SECURE THE THREAD TO THE ARTICLE OF CLOTHING
Decide where the button is going to be sewn if it is not already secure. Take your needle and take a small stitch into the fabric. Do not pull the thread all the way through. You should have the needle on one side of the stitch and the hanging thread on the other. Split apart the hanging thread so that it forms a loop. Run the needle through this loop and pull tightly.
Step 5 - SECURE THE BUTTON TO ONE POINT
If the button has four holes, then begin to stitch the needle through two of the holes and back through the the fabric remembering to pull the thread tightly. Continue this motion approximately 4 times. With the needle to the back of the fabric, take one more siny stitch through just the back of the fabric knotting the thread as you go. Cut the thread just beyond the knot.
Step 6 - REPEAT STEP 5
If you are working on a button with four holes, Repeat this step though the other set of holes. If your button only has two holes, repeat this step through the same holes. The object of this whole technique is to secure the button with more than one set of threads so that if one of your threads breaks then the other one will still be intact.
Repair clothes dyed by accident
Step 1
Take white clothes that may have gotten dyed by accident during a washing cycle and do not dry them. Instead, immerse them in a bucket with concentrated pure lemon juice and let them stand overnight. After 24 hours you may wash them as you normally would and put them through the dryer as well.
Step 2
Add Rit Color Remover to the water when washing whites dyed by accident. This is especially effective when the discoloration is due to washing the white clothes with other garments dyed with Rit. Depending on the depth of the stain, you may need to repeat this process as the first wash may lighten but not completely remove the unwanted dye spots.
Step 3
Rinse white clothes, accidentally dyed due to contact with a rusty gadget, under cold water until the stain changes from an angry red to a tan or yellow discoloration.
Step 4
Use Rit Rust Remover on such clothes and also for whites dyed accidentally due to exposure to clay and rust contained in water. This product only works on white clothes and will remove the yellow discoloration usually within one washing.
Step 5
Blot with a white paper towel any white clothes dyed by accident with ink. Spray hair spray on a clean sponge and gently rub the ink stain. Rinse the garment completely. Finally, wash as usual, adding OxyClean stain fighter.
Step 6
Soak any white garments that do not respond to your dye removal attempt overnight in hot water and OxyClean. This is a matter of last resort and should this step fail, repairing your clothes dyed by accident, will require covering up the stains with either patches, whimsical shapes that may be ironed on, or a swatch of color that closely matches the white of the garment.
Take white clothes that may have gotten dyed by accident during a washing cycle and do not dry them. Instead, immerse them in a bucket with concentrated pure lemon juice and let them stand overnight. After 24 hours you may wash them as you normally would and put them through the dryer as well.
Step 2
Add Rit Color Remover to the water when washing whites dyed by accident. This is especially effective when the discoloration is due to washing the white clothes with other garments dyed with Rit. Depending on the depth of the stain, you may need to repeat this process as the first wash may lighten but not completely remove the unwanted dye spots.
Step 3
Rinse white clothes, accidentally dyed due to contact with a rusty gadget, under cold water until the stain changes from an angry red to a tan or yellow discoloration.
Step 4
Use Rit Rust Remover on such clothes and also for whites dyed accidentally due to exposure to clay and rust contained in water. This product only works on white clothes and will remove the yellow discoloration usually within one washing.
Step 5
Blot with a white paper towel any white clothes dyed by accident with ink. Spray hair spray on a clean sponge and gently rub the ink stain. Rinse the garment completely. Finally, wash as usual, adding OxyClean stain fighter.
Step 6
Soak any white garments that do not respond to your dye removal attempt overnight in hot water and OxyClean. This is a matter of last resort and should this step fail, repairing your clothes dyed by accident, will require covering up the stains with either patches, whimsical shapes that may be ironed on, or a swatch of color that closely matches the white of the garment.
Fast fixes
Buttons
Before you ever wash a garment or hang it in the closet, check for loose buttons and repair any that need. Doing this regularly helps prevent having to replace an entire set when loose ones go astray. When you make a garment, take a clue from ready-to-wear and sew an extra matching button inside the side seam so you’ll have it when needed.
Split seams
If you have split seams, simply stitch them up before the openings become larger after being subjected to more stress from wearing. If the fabric is actually damaged, back it with lightweight fusible interfacing as an added reinforcement before stitching the seam.
Tear
For tears that aren’t within a seam but where fabric is actually torn, use the mending stitch on your sewing machine to repair. Follow these simple steps:
* Trim any frayed edges and back the damaged fabric with fusible tricot interfacing, pulling together the torn edges. A narrow strip will hold the torn edges together for stitching.
* Set the machine for a mending stitch or triple zigzag – one that goes 3 or 4 stitches in each direction forming a multiple zigzag. Adjust the length so it’s fairly close together and the width so it is wide enough to span the torn edges.
* Stitch over the torn edges catching each edge with bite of the zigzag stitch; turn each corner if needed. Depending on the fabric and the tear, a second pass of stitches may be needed to secure catch the edges
Patch
Tears can also be camouflages with patches placed over them. Commercial patches are available in standard colors, or you can create your own patch using matching fabric. Some patches are fusible, others require sewing around the edges.
To apply a sturdy patch, fuse the tear layers together to prevent further damage, then fuse the patch over the tear. If the patch isn’t fusible, make it so by using paper-backed fusible web under a fabric shape. Then zigzag or multi-step zigzag around the patch edges to hold in place.
A host of decorative patches are also available that can be used in appropriate places – like torn knees on childrenwear, or a jacket sleeve with a small tear. The construction ranges from machine embroidered to glittery sequined versions.
Suede elbow patches are available specifically to cover worn out elbow areas on much loved jackets.
You can also patch clothes with appliqués made from contrasting fabrics and cut into any shape – for children’s clothing, let the wearer create the shape.
Hems
It’s easy to catch a hem in a heel of a shoe and soon the pant leg is dragging on the ground and wearing out the fabric.
For an immediate fix, tape the hem up in its original position with transparent tape until you can get home to fix it.
For a quick fix, use fusible web to hold up the loose hem allowance. For a more professional finish, restitch it in place using the same type of stitch it was originally sewn with. Anchor the threads well into any sections that are still intact, overlapping the new stitching with the old.
Before you ever wash a garment or hang it in the closet, check for loose buttons and repair any that need. Doing this regularly helps prevent having to replace an entire set when loose ones go astray. When you make a garment, take a clue from ready-to-wear and sew an extra matching button inside the side seam so you’ll have it when needed.
Split seams
If you have split seams, simply stitch them up before the openings become larger after being subjected to more stress from wearing. If the fabric is actually damaged, back it with lightweight fusible interfacing as an added reinforcement before stitching the seam.
Tear
For tears that aren’t within a seam but where fabric is actually torn, use the mending stitch on your sewing machine to repair. Follow these simple steps:
* Trim any frayed edges and back the damaged fabric with fusible tricot interfacing, pulling together the torn edges. A narrow strip will hold the torn edges together for stitching.
* Set the machine for a mending stitch or triple zigzag – one that goes 3 or 4 stitches in each direction forming a multiple zigzag. Adjust the length so it’s fairly close together and the width so it is wide enough to span the torn edges.
* Stitch over the torn edges catching each edge with bite of the zigzag stitch; turn each corner if needed. Depending on the fabric and the tear, a second pass of stitches may be needed to secure catch the edges
Patch
Tears can also be camouflages with patches placed over them. Commercial patches are available in standard colors, or you can create your own patch using matching fabric. Some patches are fusible, others require sewing around the edges.
To apply a sturdy patch, fuse the tear layers together to prevent further damage, then fuse the patch over the tear. If the patch isn’t fusible, make it so by using paper-backed fusible web under a fabric shape. Then zigzag or multi-step zigzag around the patch edges to hold in place.
A host of decorative patches are also available that can be used in appropriate places – like torn knees on childrenwear, or a jacket sleeve with a small tear. The construction ranges from machine embroidered to glittery sequined versions.
Suede elbow patches are available specifically to cover worn out elbow areas on much loved jackets.
You can also patch clothes with appliqués made from contrasting fabrics and cut into any shape – for children’s clothing, let the wearer create the shape.
Hems
It’s easy to catch a hem in a heel of a shoe and soon the pant leg is dragging on the ground and wearing out the fabric.
For an immediate fix, tape the hem up in its original position with transparent tape until you can get home to fix it.
For a quick fix, use fusible web to hold up the loose hem allowance. For a more professional finish, restitch it in place using the same type of stitch it was originally sewn with. Anchor the threads well into any sections that are still intact, overlapping the new stitching with the old.
Garment care
You spend precious time constructing and perfecting the fit of your sewn garments, so be sure to take care of them once they are done. Proper care will prolong their life and make them look great for the duration
Hangups
Properly storing clothes in your closet will help them keep their shape. Use padded hangers for tailored garments that need shoulder shaping – wimply wire hangers don’t offer enough support.
Hangers come in several sizes, from child size to 21” across, and they are made from many different materials. Wire hangers are fine for lightweight clothing made from woven fabric. Plastic hangers offer more support, but wooden and soft padded hangers offer the ultimate support for fine garments.
If things have a tendency to slip off the hanger, look for non-slip hanger covers, or sew loops into the garment shoulder seams to keep things in place, especially those items made from slippery fabricor with wide necklines. Flexible hangers are also available to allow for shaping garments and keeping wily ones inplace.
Button garments when you place them on the hanger – it saves wrinkles and pressing later on.
For knit garments, use padded hangers for sturdy knits, but fold delicate or loosely knitted items to prevent stretching. Store folded knits in a dresser drawer, on a shelf, or in a closet storage bin.
Cleaning capers
When you purchase fabric, read the bolt for proper care instruction and make yourself a note if you are prone to forgetfulness. Pre-wash or dry clean fabric before you sew them to prevent shrinkage later when it is already been made into a garment.
Hang clothes back in the closet only after they have been inspected and cleaned. Any residual stains on a garment become very attractive to moths and other pests. This is particularly important when storing out-of-season clothing.
Check underarm areas carefully, as excessive sweating and some deodorants can actually weaken and discolor fabrics. Protect garments during wearing with dress shields or sleeved camisoles.
Hangups
Properly storing clothes in your closet will help them keep their shape. Use padded hangers for tailored garments that need shoulder shaping – wimply wire hangers don’t offer enough support.
Hangers come in several sizes, from child size to 21” across, and they are made from many different materials. Wire hangers are fine for lightweight clothing made from woven fabric. Plastic hangers offer more support, but wooden and soft padded hangers offer the ultimate support for fine garments.
If things have a tendency to slip off the hanger, look for non-slip hanger covers, or sew loops into the garment shoulder seams to keep things in place, especially those items made from slippery fabricor with wide necklines. Flexible hangers are also available to allow for shaping garments and keeping wily ones inplace.
Button garments when you place them on the hanger – it saves wrinkles and pressing later on.
For knit garments, use padded hangers for sturdy knits, but fold delicate or loosely knitted items to prevent stretching. Store folded knits in a dresser drawer, on a shelf, or in a closet storage bin.
Cleaning capers
When you purchase fabric, read the bolt for proper care instruction and make yourself a note if you are prone to forgetfulness. Pre-wash or dry clean fabric before you sew them to prevent shrinkage later when it is already been made into a garment.
Hang clothes back in the closet only after they have been inspected and cleaned. Any residual stains on a garment become very attractive to moths and other pests. This is particularly important when storing out-of-season clothing.
Check underarm areas carefully, as excessive sweating and some deodorants can actually weaken and discolor fabrics. Protect garments during wearing with dress shields or sleeved camisoles.
Shapes, sizes and what to wear to look great
Women’s bodies come in a variety of shapes and sizes, and most can be put into one of the 5 categories. Some pattern companies list which body shapes each pattern is best suited to. In fashion, the key to looking your best is to identify your body shape and learn which styles best flatter that shape.
Identify your body type
Stand in front of a full-length mirror wearing your undergarments, a leotard or bodysuit. Begin at the shoulders, visually separate your body into 3 areas: the shoulder/bust, waist and hips. Imagine a line that runs along the outside of the body at these 3 points. Which shape best defines your silhouette?
1. The hourglass
Sometimes referred to as the ideal figure, this balanced figure is marked by wide shoulders, a full bust, a narrow waist and wide hips. It has a defined waistline, and the bust and hips are nearly the same size. The object is to show off your narrow waist and curves without overemphasizing your hips and bust
What to wear
Choose shirtwaist dresses, tailored jackets, straight skirt and slim pants. Tuck in blouses. Good fitting princess-seam dresses add length and show your shape. Wear straight skirts, trim pants, and pair full skirts with close-fitting tops. Wear contrasting colors to show off your shape. Details should be of equal interest on top and bottom to keep balance. Choose vertical lines to give an appearance of length to your silhouette
What not to wear
Stay away from empire dress or tops,especially if you have a full bust. Full or boxy shapes (shirts worn untucked) cover your best asset – your defined waistline. Also steer clear of full tops with full skirts, full pants and overall boxy styles or pieces made with bulky heavy fabric.
2. The triangle
The triangle defined by narrow shoulders and a small bust extending to significantly wider hips. This figure is known as the pear shape. Give the upper body interest, drawing the eyes up away from the hips. Create balance by accentuating the shoulders and bust and minimizing the hips.
What to wear
Choose designs that have detail at the neck and shoulders, drawing the eyes up and out. Accent scarves and boat necklines with contrast trims are good choices, as are neckline embroidery,shoulder yokes or wide collars. Dark colors on the lower body, with lighter colors above, draw the eye up. Ensembles of a single color with contrast at the neckline will give a sleeker look.Shoulder pads help balance the silhouette. Shirts that hit above or below the hip will be more flattering than those at the end at the widest part of your hip. Skirts should be a bit longer and hover around the knee.
What not to wear
Stay away from tops or shirts with hemlines that fall directly on the hips. Garments with diagonal sleeve seams,such as raglans or halters, draw the eye down. Skirts or pants with patch or inseam pockets, bulky side seams, or pleats draw attention to your hips. Avoid short skirts that end well above the knee.
3. The inverted triangle
Defined by broad shoulders, a full bust and heavy upper arms extending to narrow hips, balance this figure by adding interest to the lower body.
What to wear
Choose styles that have details below the waist, such as pockets, pleats, a dropped waist, peplums, yoked skirts and skirts with border prints. Tops with V-necks, raglan sleeves or diagonal designs pull the eye down. Wear dark colors on the upper body with lighter colors on the lower body.
What not to wear
Garments with a lot of upper body detail (wide collars and lapels, yokes, ruffles and shoulder pads) draw the eye to your larger upper body. Wear skirts a little shorter and avoid capris or strongly tapered pants.
4. The slim Rectangle
In this lithe figure, the shoulders and hips are very similar in width with little definition at the waistline –straight up and down with a lack of curves. The object is to give the illusion of curves and define the waist or to enhance the look of the hips and bust
What to wear
Wear styles that have detail on the bust and on the hips. Choose designs that have horizontal lines, adding dimension to your shape. Consider unstructured tailored jackets with wide shoulders and wide lapels, or jacket with small lapels and taper at the waist. Try pair contrasting colors on the top and bottom pieces, if desired. Pair full tops with flared skirts or pleated pants. Wear pants with full or flared pant legs and narrow waistbands. Bulky sweaters and baggy pants work for this body type
What not to wear
Wide waistbands or blocks of colors at the waist draw unwanted attention to your proportionally larger waist, as do large patch pockets, large plaids and patterns with vertical stripes.
5. The wide rectangle
This body shape is nearly straight up and down. Instead of being slim,however, the figure is wider. To enhance, slim the overall appearance and add curves.
What to wear
Start with monochromatic colors and/or muted shades in complementary colors. Sheaths or body skimming styles with neckline or shoulder details draw the eye up. Princess seams, or a center-front seam, create a vertical line, drawing the eye up and down. Wear pants with narrow pant legs, straight skirts, and shirts with sleeves that taper toward the wrist and vests or jacket that fall below the waistline. Think long and sleek.
What not to wear
Blocky, bold, contrasting colors and boxy garments accentuate your width. Details that draw attention to your waist (large patch pockets, belts and peplums) add pounds.
Identify your body type
Stand in front of a full-length mirror wearing your undergarments, a leotard or bodysuit. Begin at the shoulders, visually separate your body into 3 areas: the shoulder/bust, waist and hips. Imagine a line that runs along the outside of the body at these 3 points. Which shape best defines your silhouette?
1. The hourglass
Sometimes referred to as the ideal figure, this balanced figure is marked by wide shoulders, a full bust, a narrow waist and wide hips. It has a defined waistline, and the bust and hips are nearly the same size. The object is to show off your narrow waist and curves without overemphasizing your hips and bust
What to wear
Choose shirtwaist dresses, tailored jackets, straight skirt and slim pants. Tuck in blouses. Good fitting princess-seam dresses add length and show your shape. Wear straight skirts, trim pants, and pair full skirts with close-fitting tops. Wear contrasting colors to show off your shape. Details should be of equal interest on top and bottom to keep balance. Choose vertical lines to give an appearance of length to your silhouette
What not to wear
Stay away from empire dress or tops,especially if you have a full bust. Full or boxy shapes (shirts worn untucked) cover your best asset – your defined waistline. Also steer clear of full tops with full skirts, full pants and overall boxy styles or pieces made with bulky heavy fabric.
2. The triangle
The triangle defined by narrow shoulders and a small bust extending to significantly wider hips. This figure is known as the pear shape. Give the upper body interest, drawing the eyes up away from the hips. Create balance by accentuating the shoulders and bust and minimizing the hips.
What to wear
Choose designs that have detail at the neck and shoulders, drawing the eyes up and out. Accent scarves and boat necklines with contrast trims are good choices, as are neckline embroidery,shoulder yokes or wide collars. Dark colors on the lower body, with lighter colors above, draw the eye up. Ensembles of a single color with contrast at the neckline will give a sleeker look.Shoulder pads help balance the silhouette. Shirts that hit above or below the hip will be more flattering than those at the end at the widest part of your hip. Skirts should be a bit longer and hover around the knee.
What not to wear
Stay away from tops or shirts with hemlines that fall directly on the hips. Garments with diagonal sleeve seams,such as raglans or halters, draw the eye down. Skirts or pants with patch or inseam pockets, bulky side seams, or pleats draw attention to your hips. Avoid short skirts that end well above the knee.
3. The inverted triangle
Defined by broad shoulders, a full bust and heavy upper arms extending to narrow hips, balance this figure by adding interest to the lower body.
What to wear
Choose styles that have details below the waist, such as pockets, pleats, a dropped waist, peplums, yoked skirts and skirts with border prints. Tops with V-necks, raglan sleeves or diagonal designs pull the eye down. Wear dark colors on the upper body with lighter colors on the lower body.
What not to wear
Garments with a lot of upper body detail (wide collars and lapels, yokes, ruffles and shoulder pads) draw the eye to your larger upper body. Wear skirts a little shorter and avoid capris or strongly tapered pants.
4. The slim Rectangle
In this lithe figure, the shoulders and hips are very similar in width with little definition at the waistline –straight up and down with a lack of curves. The object is to give the illusion of curves and define the waist or to enhance the look of the hips and bust
What to wear
Wear styles that have detail on the bust and on the hips. Choose designs that have horizontal lines, adding dimension to your shape. Consider unstructured tailored jackets with wide shoulders and wide lapels, or jacket with small lapels and taper at the waist. Try pair contrasting colors on the top and bottom pieces, if desired. Pair full tops with flared skirts or pleated pants. Wear pants with full or flared pant legs and narrow waistbands. Bulky sweaters and baggy pants work for this body type
What not to wear
Wide waistbands or blocks of colors at the waist draw unwanted attention to your proportionally larger waist, as do large patch pockets, large plaids and patterns with vertical stripes.
5. The wide rectangle
This body shape is nearly straight up and down. Instead of being slim,however, the figure is wider. To enhance, slim the overall appearance and add curves.
What to wear
Start with monochromatic colors and/or muted shades in complementary colors. Sheaths or body skimming styles with neckline or shoulder details draw the eye up. Princess seams, or a center-front seam, create a vertical line, drawing the eye up and down. Wear pants with narrow pant legs, straight skirts, and shirts with sleeves that taper toward the wrist and vests or jacket that fall below the waistline. Think long and sleek.
What not to wear
Blocky, bold, contrasting colors and boxy garments accentuate your width. Details that draw attention to your waist (large patch pockets, belts and peplums) add pounds.
Best way to clean inside of your iron
If the iron has a self-cleaning function, activate it following the manufacturer’s instructions.
If the iron doesn’t have a cleaning function, flush it with naturally bottled spring water–pure and simple. Avoid using vinegar or any chemicals, as they may damage the water tank in some irons.
To flush the iron, fill it with water and let it heat to the cotton setting temperature. When it’s heated, depress the steam button until all the water has emptied from the iron. Repeat this process 4 to 5 times for a thorough flushing.
If the iron doesn’t have a cleaning function, flush it with naturally bottled spring water–pure and simple. Avoid using vinegar or any chemicals, as they may damage the water tank in some irons.
To flush the iron, fill it with water and let it heat to the cotton setting temperature. When it’s heated, depress the steam button until all the water has emptied from the iron. Repeat this process 4 to 5 times for a thorough flushing.
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