What is the origin of denim?
Two of the fabrics most symbolic of American fashion - chambray and denim - are in reality French imports. A soft comfortable fabric with contrasting colored and white yarns, chambray was first found in Chambrai, France. Denim, originating in Nimes (as in "serge de Nimes"), was introduced to this country via work pants designed for the mining industry by a Mr. Levi Strauss.
How did the T-shirt get its name?
One of the earliest prototypes for the T-shirt dates to 1880, when sailors in the U.S. Navy were issued an elbow and hip length undershirt; when laid out on flat surface, it resembled a…perfect "T".
What's the difference between cotton and linen?
Natural fibers fall into two main groups: protein fibers, which come from animals, and vegetable fibers which come from plants. The main ingredient in all vegetable fibers is cellulose, a carbohydrate found in all plant life. Both cotton and linen are vegetable fibers. Linen is made from the flax plant, cotton is made from the cotton plant.
Why do cotton and wool shrink when you wash them?
There are two kinds of shrinkage. Progressive shrinkage occurs when the fiber itself shrinks. Wool fiber shrinks a little more each time it is washed, which is why wool is usually dry cleaned. Relaxation shrinkage is when the fabric shrinks. It is caused by the tension applied to yarns and fabrics during construction. The tension is released when the fabric is washed or steam pressed, causing it to shrink to its natural size. Most cotton fabric shrinkage occurs during the first wash.
What makes cotton wrinkle?
During wearing and cleaning, fabrics are temporarily distorted to accommodate the stress of use. If the fabric does not recover its original shape, the results are described as wrinkling. Untreated cotton fibers do not have a permanent memory. The cellulose chains in the fiber move by breaking and re-establishing hydrogen bonds. There are no natural forces to promote the cellulose chains to return to their original configuration.
Does cotton clothing have to be dry cleaned?
Cotton is easily laundered at home, but some fabrics and garments may be dry cleaned instead. Watch out for: embossed designs, loose knit weaves that snag easily, delicate embellished fabrics, linings, shoulder pads and inner construction, special finishes that come out in the wash, and garments that require professional pressing and finishing, such as starched oxford shirts.
Are cotton panties more hygienic than synthetic ones?
Man-made fabrics don't provide the same ventilation that natural fibers do. Because fungi flourish in dark, moist environments, constrictive, synthetic garments can create an ideal habitat for yeast to multiply. All-cotton underpants permit air to circulate below the waist. Due to its unique fiber structure, cotton breathes and helps remove body moisture by absorbing it and wicking it away from the skin.
How can you pack cotton clothes so that they won't get all rumpled?
Cotton knit sweaters and tee-shirts can be rolled and placed in your suitcase to prevent wrinkling. Garments made from woven cotton fabrics such as button-down shirts and trousers should first be folded along their natural creases. Then drape each garment across the suitcase so that the ends hang over the sides. Alternate putting the top of each garment on the right and left side so that the thickness remains uniform. Next, fold each item around the other, alternating the overhang from right and left sides. By following the "inter-folding" method of packing, your clothes cushion each other and are less likely to get crumpled.
Are khakis and chinos the same thing?
Once upon a time both chino and khaki were fabrics used in military uniforms; today these words are used interchangeably to refer to the tan-colored pants inspired by military looks.
Khaki is derived from a Hindu word that means "dust color." Originally, khaki referred to a dull yellow-ish brown cotton or wool uniform fabric used for its camouflage effect by the armed forces of England, France and the U.S. since the mid 19th century; in World War I, a green tint was added. Khaki work pants and jackets were adapted for sports by men and women in the 1950s and 60s.
Chino has its roots in World War I when the U.S. army purchased this durable cotton twill from China for use by soldiers in the Philippines. In the late 1950s it was adapted by men and boys for school and general wear, particularly for pants.
Monday, August 24, 2009
Tuesday, August 18, 2009
Wrinkle-free clothes
Do you like to wear shirts in the office, which you do not need to iron after washing, so called non-iron shirts? Unfortunately after a few washing cycles this property gets lost, they become wrinkled and need to iron them.
Everyone is short on time and ironing is a pain. To make cotton clothes wrinkle free it needs to be blended with other synthetic fibres like polyester. So in the early 1990s, textile companies began to apply finishing agents to fabrics to prevent or decrease wrinkles. These particular chemical agents act as catalysts that cross-link polymer chains in the cotton weaving, giving the material some elasticity and resilience. In short, this treatment makes clothes wrinkle-free.
Due to the increasing demand for 100% cotton fabrics, durable press finishes are being used on these clothes. Generally, cotton fibers are spun into yarn, woven into fabric, and then dyed, and the last part of the process is treating it with a 'cross-linking' resin. The applications of formaldehyde based reagents that are used to create these apparels are now creating ripples all across the globe backing up with concerns for human health and environment
Several problems have been associated with wrinkle-resistant finishes, such as attracting grease and oil stains, fabric degradation and environmental concerns. Most of the problems have been minimized but companies are constantly finding ways to improve the properties.
Home care:
a) wash the material at lower temperature settings, low stress cycle, weaker detergents - to reduce loss of structure
b) find clothing with more polyester in it - to strengthen structures, or
c) iron every now and then and making sure that the clothing cools in a dry, pressed state - to regain structures.
Everyone is short on time and ironing is a pain. To make cotton clothes wrinkle free it needs to be blended with other synthetic fibres like polyester. So in the early 1990s, textile companies began to apply finishing agents to fabrics to prevent or decrease wrinkles. These particular chemical agents act as catalysts that cross-link polymer chains in the cotton weaving, giving the material some elasticity and resilience. In short, this treatment makes clothes wrinkle-free.
Due to the increasing demand for 100% cotton fabrics, durable press finishes are being used on these clothes. Generally, cotton fibers are spun into yarn, woven into fabric, and then dyed, and the last part of the process is treating it with a 'cross-linking' resin. The applications of formaldehyde based reagents that are used to create these apparels are now creating ripples all across the globe backing up with concerns for human health and environment
Several problems have been associated with wrinkle-resistant finishes, such as attracting grease and oil stains, fabric degradation and environmental concerns. Most of the problems have been minimized but companies are constantly finding ways to improve the properties.
Home care:
a) wash the material at lower temperature settings, low stress cycle, weaker detergents - to reduce loss of structure
b) find clothing with more polyester in it - to strengthen structures, or
c) iron every now and then and making sure that the clothing cools in a dry, pressed state - to regain structures.
Friday, August 14, 2009
Understanding the Care label system
The entire care label symbol system, as designed by the ASTM and approved by the FTC, is based upon five basic symbols which represent five basic care operations. These are: a washtub with a water wave for the washing process; a triangle for bleaching; a square for dying; an iron for ironing; and a circle for dry cleaning. Only one safe method of care is required on the label - usually either laundering or dry cleaning.
In addition, the "X" symbol can be superimposed on any of the symbols whenever there is evidence to support that using that process could damage the apparel.
To adequately represent the laundering process, at least four symbols must be used in the following order - washing, bleaching, drying and ironing. If you have evidence that dry cleaning will damage the item, and you wish to warn against it, add the dry cleaning symbol with an X after the four other symbols.
For garments that must be dry cleaned, the dry cleaning symbol must be used at a minimum.
Using additional symbols to clarify proper care.
Additional symbols or words are also used within and below each basic symbol when it is necessary to further define proper care instructions.
Washing: A water temperature must be given if certain temperatures would damage the garment. The following system of dots can be used within the washtub to indicate suggested water temperatures for washing.
Six dots = 95 C/200 F
Five dots = 70 C/160 F
Four dots = 60 C/140 F
Three dots = 50 C/120 F
Two dots = 40 C/105 F
One dot = 30 C/85 F.
The washing machines used by most U.S. consumers, however, do not heat the water to a precise temperature. In addition, many consumer washing machines cannot attain the very high temperatures indicated by six, five or even four dots. For this reason, the FTC consumer chart (shown below) shows only three dots for hot, two dots for warm and one dot for cold/cool. Unless you intend for your product to be professionally laundered at very high temperatures, you will probably want to use one, two or three dots and explain to the consumer that these correlate to cool, warm and hot.
Underlining the tub once indicates the permanent press cycle, and underlining it twice indicates the delicate-gentle washing cycle.
Bleaching: The triangle means all bleach can be safely used. If chlorine bleach cannot be safely used, diagonal lines should be included within the bleaching triangle to indicate non-chlorine bleach only. If no bleach can be safely used, an X through the triangle should be used to provide a do not bleach warning.
Drying: Additional symbols within the drying process square are designed to indicate the type of drying process to use such as tumble dry, line dry, drip dry, dry flat or dry in the shade. If apparel is designed for tumble dry, but a special cycle is necessary, one underline indicates permanent press while two underlines indicate the delicate-gentle cycle.
Ironing: Additional ironing symbols include dot symbols inside the iron to indicate the proper temperature setting:
Three dots = high
Two dots = medium
One dot = low.
A steam burst can be used under the iron to indicate steaming, or it can appear with an X to warn not to steam.
Dry Cleaning: A letter enclosed in the dry cleaning symbol indicates the type of solvent recommended. Additional symbols can be used to provide warnings about parts of the normal dry cleaning process that should be modified or avoided.
As you can see, in a relatively small space, the care symbol system is designed to offer simple, detailed, straightforward care instructions.
Care for some answers to your questions?
Q. Do I have to use symbols?
A. No. You can continue to use written care instructions if you'd like. The conditional exemption approved by the FTC simply give you the option of using care symbols instead of words beginning July 1, 1997. Using care symbols can result in smaller labels, unify care labeling among NAFTA countries and help consumers buy and care for apparel without knowledge of the language.
Remember, if you do choose to use care symbols you must also provide written care instructions with the garment - for example, on hang tags, stickers or package inserts. (Of course, you may simply state the instructions in both words and symbols on the label itself. This mandate is effective for the first 18 months of care symbol usage - July 1, 1997 through December 31, 1998.
Q. Can I use additional explanatory words with the symbols?
A. Yes. In fact, in certain cases, you may want to use additional words with care symbols in order to clarify care procedures. For example, where laundering instructions are concerned, terms such as with like colors, do not pretreat, remove shoulder pads, do not use fabric softener - to name just a few - may be necessary.
Q. Can I put care symbols on the reverse side of the label?
A. Yes. But it is required that either the care label or the detailed care instructions be visible at the point of purchase.
Q. Do the symbols have to be in any order?
A. Yes, they do. For apparel that needs to be laundered, at last four symbols must be used and they must appear in the following order - washing, bleaching, drying and ironing. If you have evidence that dry cleaning will damage the item and you wish to warn against it, you should add the "do not dry clean" symbol last. If dry cleaning is the suggested care, only the dry cleaning symbol with any appropriate additions, needs to be used.
Q. Do the symbols have to be a certain size?
A. Care label symbols do not have to be a specific size. But they do have to meet the existing Care Label Rule requirement of legibility. Of course, it is important to keep in mind, that failure to print legible care symbols may be considered an unfair or deceptive practice and result in civil penalties.
Q. Can the symbols be stacked down the side of the label?
A. Yes, provided they still appear in the proper order and are legible.
Q. Do the symbols have to be a certain color?
A. The care symbols do not have to be a particular color.
Q. How do care symbols meet with NAFTA's call for harmonizing care labeling?
A. One of the motivating factors in the FTC's introduction of care symbols in the U.S. was mandate by NAFTA to unify care labeling. The ASTM care labeling system has been designed to be harmonious with systems in Canada and Mexico. Currently, care labeling in Canada is strictly voluntary. In Mexico, care labeling is mandatory and there are indicators that Mexico is moving toward accepting the FTC rules on care labeling. Keep in mind that, at present, this ruling only applies to the United States.
Q. Do I have to use dots and temperatures in the wash box?
A. The dots must be used: the temperature can be used in addition to the dots if you wish.
Q. Can I use or continue to use European care symbols?
A. No, you cannot. The FTC has concluded that the care symbols developed by the ASTM are more comprehensive in nature than the European care symbols developed by the ISO. Thus, the FTC has ruled that only ASTM-symbols can be used.
Q. Can I put the symbols and the explanations just on the packaging?
A. No. The FTC's conditional exemption specifically states that care symbols must appear on permanent labels within the garment. Explanations of the care symbols must accompany the garment and can be placed, for example, on hang tags, stickers or package inserts.
In addition, the "X" symbol can be superimposed on any of the symbols whenever there is evidence to support that using that process could damage the apparel.
To adequately represent the laundering process, at least four symbols must be used in the following order - washing, bleaching, drying and ironing. If you have evidence that dry cleaning will damage the item, and you wish to warn against it, add the dry cleaning symbol with an X after the four other symbols.
For garments that must be dry cleaned, the dry cleaning symbol must be used at a minimum.
Using additional symbols to clarify proper care.
Additional symbols or words are also used within and below each basic symbol when it is necessary to further define proper care instructions.
Washing: A water temperature must be given if certain temperatures would damage the garment. The following system of dots can be used within the washtub to indicate suggested water temperatures for washing.
Six dots = 95 C/200 F
Five dots = 70 C/160 F
Four dots = 60 C/140 F
Three dots = 50 C/120 F
Two dots = 40 C/105 F
One dot = 30 C/85 F.
The washing machines used by most U.S. consumers, however, do not heat the water to a precise temperature. In addition, many consumer washing machines cannot attain the very high temperatures indicated by six, five or even four dots. For this reason, the FTC consumer chart (shown below) shows only three dots for hot, two dots for warm and one dot for cold/cool. Unless you intend for your product to be professionally laundered at very high temperatures, you will probably want to use one, two or three dots and explain to the consumer that these correlate to cool, warm and hot.
Underlining the tub once indicates the permanent press cycle, and underlining it twice indicates the delicate-gentle washing cycle.
Bleaching: The triangle means all bleach can be safely used. If chlorine bleach cannot be safely used, diagonal lines should be included within the bleaching triangle to indicate non-chlorine bleach only. If no bleach can be safely used, an X through the triangle should be used to provide a do not bleach warning.
Drying: Additional symbols within the drying process square are designed to indicate the type of drying process to use such as tumble dry, line dry, drip dry, dry flat or dry in the shade. If apparel is designed for tumble dry, but a special cycle is necessary, one underline indicates permanent press while two underlines indicate the delicate-gentle cycle.
Ironing: Additional ironing symbols include dot symbols inside the iron to indicate the proper temperature setting:
Three dots = high
Two dots = medium
One dot = low.
A steam burst can be used under the iron to indicate steaming, or it can appear with an X to warn not to steam.
Dry Cleaning: A letter enclosed in the dry cleaning symbol indicates the type of solvent recommended. Additional symbols can be used to provide warnings about parts of the normal dry cleaning process that should be modified or avoided.
As you can see, in a relatively small space, the care symbol system is designed to offer simple, detailed, straightforward care instructions.
Care for some answers to your questions?
Q. Do I have to use symbols?
A. No. You can continue to use written care instructions if you'd like. The conditional exemption approved by the FTC simply give you the option of using care symbols instead of words beginning July 1, 1997. Using care symbols can result in smaller labels, unify care labeling among NAFTA countries and help consumers buy and care for apparel without knowledge of the language.
Remember, if you do choose to use care symbols you must also provide written care instructions with the garment - for example, on hang tags, stickers or package inserts. (Of course, you may simply state the instructions in both words and symbols on the label itself. This mandate is effective for the first 18 months of care symbol usage - July 1, 1997 through December 31, 1998.
Q. Can I use additional explanatory words with the symbols?
A. Yes. In fact, in certain cases, you may want to use additional words with care symbols in order to clarify care procedures. For example, where laundering instructions are concerned, terms such as with like colors, do not pretreat, remove shoulder pads, do not use fabric softener - to name just a few - may be necessary.
Q. Can I put care symbols on the reverse side of the label?
A. Yes. But it is required that either the care label or the detailed care instructions be visible at the point of purchase.
Q. Do the symbols have to be in any order?
A. Yes, they do. For apparel that needs to be laundered, at last four symbols must be used and they must appear in the following order - washing, bleaching, drying and ironing. If you have evidence that dry cleaning will damage the item and you wish to warn against it, you should add the "do not dry clean" symbol last. If dry cleaning is the suggested care, only the dry cleaning symbol with any appropriate additions, needs to be used.
Q. Do the symbols have to be a certain size?
A. Care label symbols do not have to be a specific size. But they do have to meet the existing Care Label Rule requirement of legibility. Of course, it is important to keep in mind, that failure to print legible care symbols may be considered an unfair or deceptive practice and result in civil penalties.
Q. Can the symbols be stacked down the side of the label?
A. Yes, provided they still appear in the proper order and are legible.
Q. Do the symbols have to be a certain color?
A. The care symbols do not have to be a particular color.
Q. How do care symbols meet with NAFTA's call for harmonizing care labeling?
A. One of the motivating factors in the FTC's introduction of care symbols in the U.S. was mandate by NAFTA to unify care labeling. The ASTM care labeling system has been designed to be harmonious with systems in Canada and Mexico. Currently, care labeling in Canada is strictly voluntary. In Mexico, care labeling is mandatory and there are indicators that Mexico is moving toward accepting the FTC rules on care labeling. Keep in mind that, at present, this ruling only applies to the United States.
Q. Do I have to use dots and temperatures in the wash box?
A. The dots must be used: the temperature can be used in addition to the dots if you wish.
Q. Can I use or continue to use European care symbols?
A. No, you cannot. The FTC has concluded that the care symbols developed by the ASTM are more comprehensive in nature than the European care symbols developed by the ISO. Thus, the FTC has ruled that only ASTM-symbols can be used.
Q. Can I put the symbols and the explanations just on the packaging?
A. No. The FTC's conditional exemption specifically states that care symbols must appear on permanent labels within the garment. Explanations of the care symbols must accompany the garment and can be placed, for example, on hang tags, stickers or package inserts.
Household tips
Problem 1 - how to not shrink my 100% cotton shirt? They all shrink after wash!
Tips - Wash them in cold water only and avoid the dryer but still...learn to read the label. If it is 100% cotton, you should take one size larger that what you need.
Some clothes for works could get dirty enough to need cleaning with warm or hot water...
There are pre-shrunk 100% cotton clothes...the fabric will be washed in very hot water three times and dry them in hot dryer...before they be used to cut into making of clothes...So, buy pre-shrunk or get one size larger.
********
Problem 2 - how do you remove ink marks from a blouse made of 81% polyester, 15% rayon and 4% linen? The care labels says it is washable.
Tips - soak the spot with hairspray, wait 5 minutes and then wash it. The ink came out completely.
********
Problem 3 - how do you remove yellow from your clear vinyl shower curtain? It gets clean in washer, still yellowed.
Tips - Chemicals in water will stain shower curtains plus bacteria (that slimy, pinkish/orange colored stuff) builds up on vinyl too and can cause pink eye and urinary tract infections. Try 2cups white vinegar and a whole box of baking soda in water just to cover, and soak it for 2 hours. Come out absolutely clear!
********
Problem 4 - If I put fabric softener in when I wash sheets and pillowcases, am I attracting more dust mites??
Tips - Bleach would kill them since it kills 99% of household germs...That's Clorox. You have to look on the bleach bottle to make sure it disinfects and sanitizes.
********
Problem 5 - how do I remove gum from fabric?
Tips - Put it in the freezer til it's nice and crispy, don't just put ice.
********
Problem 6 - coffee stain!
Tips - Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label. And, follow the general rules for stain removal:
* Saturate the stain with a pretreatment stain remover.
* Rub the stain with a heavy-duty liquid detergent and launder in hottest water safe for the fabric.
* Do not use soap (bar, flake, or detergents containing natural soap), since soap could make stain permanent or at least more difficult to remove.
* If stain remains launder with bleach safe for the fabric.
Want more of these tips? Stay tune.
Tips - Wash them in cold water only and avoid the dryer but still...learn to read the label. If it is 100% cotton, you should take one size larger that what you need.
Some clothes for works could get dirty enough to need cleaning with warm or hot water...
There are pre-shrunk 100% cotton clothes...the fabric will be washed in very hot water three times and dry them in hot dryer...before they be used to cut into making of clothes...So, buy pre-shrunk or get one size larger.
********
Problem 2 - how do you remove ink marks from a blouse made of 81% polyester, 15% rayon and 4% linen? The care labels says it is washable.
Tips - soak the spot with hairspray, wait 5 minutes and then wash it. The ink came out completely.
********
Problem 3 - how do you remove yellow from your clear vinyl shower curtain? It gets clean in washer, still yellowed.
Tips - Chemicals in water will stain shower curtains plus bacteria (that slimy, pinkish/orange colored stuff) builds up on vinyl too and can cause pink eye and urinary tract infections. Try 2cups white vinegar and a whole box of baking soda in water just to cover, and soak it for 2 hours. Come out absolutely clear!
********
Problem 4 - If I put fabric softener in when I wash sheets and pillowcases, am I attracting more dust mites??
Tips - Bleach would kill them since it kills 99% of household germs...That's Clorox. You have to look on the bleach bottle to make sure it disinfects and sanitizes.
********
Problem 5 - how do I remove gum from fabric?
Tips - Put it in the freezer til it's nice and crispy, don't just put ice.
********
Problem 6 - coffee stain!
Tips - Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label. And, follow the general rules for stain removal:
* Saturate the stain with a pretreatment stain remover.
* Rub the stain with a heavy-duty liquid detergent and launder in hottest water safe for the fabric.
* Do not use soap (bar, flake, or detergents containing natural soap), since soap could make stain permanent or at least more difficult to remove.
* If stain remains launder with bleach safe for the fabric.
Want more of these tips? Stay tune.
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